I have a webpage that displays a map using Leaflet and the free map data from tile.openstreetmap.org. You can view it here https://www.is-fabulous.com/maptest.htm

I would like to display it without street names and, in a perfect world, with contours. In fact in a perfect world I would like to display it and make a copy of it as (say) a PDF.

I understand that there are a variety of different providers and options but despite much googling I am still unable to understand what I need to do. And of course I want to do it for free.

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