I am building a vector (strava routes) map using QGIS and the Stamen Toner OSM Basemaps but want to edit it to change the colors of the baseman slightly. Is this possible? I see Arc seems to have a beta feature but not sure if there's a way to do so in QGIS. Is the basemap essentially just an image?
If easier, I've found the Stamen Toner map inverted is essentially exactly what I want (white streets on dark background). So I've been building the map in QGIS with my computer colors inverted, is there an easy way to just do that that wouldn't involve manually changing colors?